Product Photography Tips: How To Take Better Etsy Listing Photos

A picture is worth a thousand words.  It's also worth sales, according to Etsy: "Taking photos that are sharp, simple and illustrative is key to selling success".

After considering my experiences as both a buyer and a seller, I tend to agree.  When I'm looking to buy, I always judge the photo first.  If the picture is dark or grainy or otherwise doesn't positively showcase the product, I won't even click.  

As a seller, I've come to learn firsthand how important nice product photography is.  Since opening my fabric shop, I've always used the stock photos from the manufacturers, which even most successful fabric shops do.  Recently, I did an experiment.  I took one line of fabric that wasn't selling well in my shop and refreshed all the photos.  This is popular fabric from a well-known designer that gets a lot of hype online, so I was stumped as to why it wasn't selling.  I saw dramatic results that convinced me to ditch the stock photos. 

Within 24 hours I noted the following stats for the specific fabrics with better listing photos:

• 49 views
• 7 listing faves
• 3 (THREE!) sales
• an increase in shop favorites over the previous days, which might also be attributed to better photography showing up on my front page

These numbers are huge for my small shop.  Considering I've had this fabric listed and promoted since prior to its release (about 5 months) with very dismal sales, I am convinced the better listing photos were the ticket.

It's no simple thing to get your product to the top of that first search results page.  Optimize your chances for clicks, favorites, and sales by using great photos.  Here is my product photography process.

My set-up is not elaborate and doesn't have to be expensive:

• Cheap white foam board from the craft store.  I use two boards: one is a surface on the floor, the other is propped up (with my wastebasket) as a backdrop and light reflector.  I set the boards up adjacent to a window that receives a lot of daylight.  Sometimes I open the blinds all the way, other times I leave them down and fiddle with them until there are no shadows coming through.  I like that this set up is portable, so I can move it around the house easily depending on the time of day and amount of light streaming in.  It's also easy to store away behind a chair or in the closet.  And when it gets dinged up, I can re-use it for plenty of other uses (here's my favorite).
• A window with daylight really makes all the difference.  Even if you are using your phone camera, or you prefer a different type of backdrop, lighting is the key to great photos.  If you don't have photo editing software or just can't make the time to post-process, you NEED good light, preferably from daylight.  Please don't use the flash.
• Camera, obviously.  You can't take photos without one.  I use a Nikon D3000 digital SLR fitted with a 35mm f/1.8 lens.  I know of people that use their smart phone and have great results.  I haven't used my phone for listing photos, but I really love (and print) a lot of family photos from my Samsung Galaxy S4 camera.
• Photo-editing software.  I use Photoshop Elements because I already owned it and knew how to use it for digital scrapbooking purposes from way back in the day.  Other options are Lightroom, PicMonkey (free online), or even an app on your phone.

Hipster Deer Fabric in my Etsy Shop

My Nikon D3000 camera settings are not intimidating:

• I shoot in aperture mode (the A on the dial).  You don't need to go full manual to achieve great results.  You will also get great photos in full automatic mode, but I keep my dial set to A for everything because that's where I'm comfortable with my camera.
• I always set my white balance manually.  For the D3000, push the menu button, pick the shooting menu tab (the one with the camera icon), scroll down to "white balance" and select, scroll down to "preset manual" and select, select "measure", select "yes" to overwrite existing data, and then take a photo of the white foam board where it is set up for the photo shoot.  I can change the white balance mode on my Samsung Galaxy S4 phone as well, by choosing the gear icon in camera mode.  There are some options other than auto, so play around with your phone to see what looks best.  
• I use M/A focus mode on my lens.  M/A lets the lens auto focus, but you can also manually turn to focus if you want.  I almost never mess with it and let it do it's thing because my eyes aren't great and I never seem to wear my glasses.  Oops.  On my smart phone, I can single tap the screen where I want the camera to focus.
• I take a few test shots with different exposures using the +/- button.  I can hold the exposure comp button down and turn the wheel with my thumb to control how bright or dark the photo turns out.  I admit I don't know what the meter really means, but I do know that when the dashes are headed left (or towards the +), then my photo gets brighter.  I'm not profesh and I don't recognize when I'll need to do this without taking some test shots, so thank goodness for digital!
• I NEVER, EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE FLASH.  Just don't do it.  Wait for daylight, friends.

Priory Square Fabric Bundle in my Etsy Shop

Sometimes post-processing the pics with photo-editing software is necessary:

• I use Photoshop Elements.  I'm currently using version 11.  I like it and don't really desire to switch to anything else.  I recently downloaded Photo Editor Pro on my Android phone, but have not played with it.  It does get great reviews in the Google Play Store.
• I play with the lighting.  Using the "Enhance" menu, go to "Adjust Lighting" and experiment with the "Shadows/Highlights" and "Brightness" functions.  I find that if these need adjusting, it's only by a little bit if I get my lighting and exposure right with the camera settings.
• I "Save for Web" in the file menu to optimize the photo for sharing online.  Etsy recommends 1000 pixels for photo width, and this is where I manipulate that.

Do you have any go-to tips for taking great product photos?

Scrappy Little Heart Quilt Block Tutorial

Ah, Valentine's Day.  The season of hearts and flowers and pink and red.  Today I bring to you a tutorial for making this tiny little heart block.  It's a great way to use up some pretty scraps.  And don't think you have to use all pinks and reds and purples.  I bet this would look good in any combination of colors.  If you look really close, you can see that I even used two different whites (Kona White and Bella Solids Bleached White) for the background.  Scrap-bustin' over here.

This block measures only 4.5" square.  Why so small?  Well because I happened to have made up a bunch of pink and purple butterfly blocks from Lori Holt's book Quilty Fun, and they measure 4.5".  And then I didn't even use the heart blocks with the butterfly blocks.  After I made them, I HAD to turn them into a Valentine's Day pillow.  But at least now you know why I made such small blocks.  Onto the instructions!

For EACH block, you'll need:
(2) 2.5" x 4.5" heart fabrics
(4) 1.5" squares background fabric
(2) 2.5" squares background fabric

It's important to use a scant 1/4" seam here.  There's not much room for trimming and squaring up.  A scant seam will help with that.

Draw a line from point to point on the wrong side your background squares (the 2.5" squares too).

Position a 1.5" square of background fabric right sides together (RST) with the top left corner of your 2.5" x 4.5" heart fabric pieces.  Note the direction of the line you drew.  

Stitch on the line you drew.  If you are making a lot of heart blocks, I find it helpful to chain piece here.  Trim a 1/4" inch from your stitched line.

Press your background fabric open.  Position your other 1.5" squares of background fabric as shown on the top right corner of your heart fabric pieces.  Note the direction of the drawn line.

Stitch on the drawn line (again, chain piecing if necessary).  Trim 1/4" away from your stitched line.  Press the background fabric open.  You should now have something that looks like a really tall flying geese unit.

Place your 2.5" background squares RST on the bottom of your heart fabric unit.  Not the direction of the drawn lines.  You'll want them going in opposite directions.

Stitch on the drawn line (chain piece here as well).  Trim a 1/4" away from the stitched line.

Press the background fabric open.  You now have two halves of a heart.

Place the two halves RST and sew down the side.  Press open.

Trim it up if necessary.  Now you have a super cute little heart!

I made seven hearts and turned them into a pillow.  What will you use your hearts for?  I'd love to see pics, please link in the comments if you make them!

Happy Valentine's Day!

Story Book Star Baby Quilt Tutorial for Moda Bake Shop

Hello Friends!  Today I'm excited to share my Story Book Star baby quilt tutorial over on the Moda Bake Shop blog.  You only need one charm pack and a little bit of yardage.  I used Story Book by Kate & Birdie Paper Co. for Moda.  The pattern features an over-size Ohio Star in the center followed by simple borders to bring it up to size.  Very fast and easy!

Head on over to Moda Bake Shop and Pin the tutorial!

The $12 Glam Holiday Wreath Tutorial

I am going to show you how to make a super glam wreath for minimal time, effort, and cash.  In fact, this wreath was so easy, it did not even occur to me that it could be tutorial.  But after a few people asked me how I made it, I thought it would be nice to have some photos to illustrate how simple it really is.  So simple that I took apart the my already completed wreath, and made it again.

Materials:
14 inch embroidery hoop (I only used the center ring) - $1.75 with coupon at Hobby Lobby

1 package of fluffy tinsel garland - $6 during half off sale at Hobby Lobby

2 sets of shatterproof mini ornaments - $2 each at Wal-Mart

10 ornament hooks - 8 cents (99 cents for a pack of 125 at Walgreens)

Don't use this puny tinsel garland.  Yes, it is cheap, but it also looks cheap, and it is way too skimpy for wreath-making.  Splurge on the big fluffy stuff.  I got mine at Hobby Lobby, but I have also seen it at Wal-Mart.

Using one ornament hook and a twist-tie motion, secure one end of the tinsel garland to the embroidery hoop.  The arrow in the photo is pointing out the ornament hook, since it is hard to see.

Wrap...

....and wrap until you get to the other end of the tinsel garland.  You want the garland to be snug, but not so tight that it will break.  You should be able to slide it around a little, but not so much that it is falling off.

Wrap this end of the garland with another ornament hook in a twist tie motion and secure to the embroidery hoop.  Again, the arrow is pointing to the hook.

You could leave it like this and it would still be pretty chic (and also only $8).  I decided to jazz mine up with a little color.

Using one ornament hook for each ornament, secure the ornaments onto the wreath using a twist tie motion.  I attached mine to the garland only, but you could wrap your hook around the whole hoop as well.

Hang it up, and enjoy!

Holiday Napkin Rings Tutorial, Applique Pattern, and a Giveaway

The holiday season always gives us a lot of reasons to celebrate and entertain.  Whether you are the one hosting, or you are attending a party, this tutorial is a quick and easy way to help you or your hostess set the table.

Click through to Ellison Lane for my Holiday Napkin Rings tutorial

The tutorial is part of the Holiday Hostess series of cooking, dining, and entertaining tutorials by some of your favorite bloggers, brought together on Ellison Lane.  Check back everyday through November 21st for more inspiration and chances to win fabulous prizes from the following sponsors:

Sponsor Prize List: 

Fabricworm: Mod Basics Bundle

Intrepid Thread: Hip Holiday Bundle and 2 Patterns

Cucire: Shot Cottons & Aurifil

Stitcherie: Lush Uptown Jelly Roll

Sew Adorable Fabrics: Christmas Riley Blake Fat Quarter Bundle

Timeless Treasures: Holiday Fat Quarter Bundle

Fat Quarter Shop: $50 Gift Certificate

Zipit: $25 Gift Certificate

Southern Fabric: $25 Gift Certificate

Dritz: Elastics Bundle (14 packs)

My shop, Stitcherie, is offering up a jelly roll of Lush Uptown!  Stitcherie is not quite open yet, so be sure to follow on Facebook for shop news.

Now that you have seen all of the fabulous prizes, how would you like to win them?  Follow the link below for EIGHTEEN chances to win! 

a Rafflecopter giveaway
Giveaway Closed

And as a thank you from me to you for being awesome, here is a FREE APPLIQUE PATTERN so you can make some holiday napkins to match your Holiday Napkin Rings.  Just use your favorite applique method (I do machine applique using fusible web) to jazz up store bought napkins.  Or make your own like I did with an 18 inch square of linen and your favorite binding method.

If you are new here, thank you for stopping by!  I am so excited you are here!  Please feel free to stick around a while, check out my pattern reviews and gallery of finished projects, and follow on Bloglovin.

Scrappy Dishtowel Tutorial

I've recently decided to add some color into my bland, neutral kitchen.  I also needed new dishtowels.  And that's how this tutorial was born.

My color inspiration came from a few sets of bowls I have.  Colorful, bright, warm, vibrant.  A far cry from my usual muted, cool, safe, soothing colors.  But oh, did I need a dash of spice in my kitchen.  I started sorting through my scraps to find some colors that would play nicely together and with the bowls I had in mind.  Here's what I came up with:

As I set out to make my dishtowels, I decided to take photos of all the steps in case you wanted to make a set for yourself (or as a gift for someone else).  Ready?  Here we go!

Tools & Materials:
Dishtowels - I used a set from Target
Rectangle/Strip Scraps - 2" by at least 3", up to 5"
Self healing mat, rotary cutter, ruler
Sewing machine
Thread
Iron & ironing board
Seam guide

Step 1:
Measure the width of your towel.  Add 2 inches to this measurement for seam allowance.  For my towel:  16" + 2" SA = 18"

Step 2:
Lay out all your scraps.  Doing so will help you decide if it's scrappy enough or if you need to add in more colors and prints.  After seeing them all spread out like this, I added in more green and purple.

Step 3:

Grab scraps randomly, and sew together the 2" sides with a HALF INCH seam.  We're using a 1/2" seam because this item is going to get washed A LOT (because you ARE going to use it, right?).  So let's give ourselves some extra wiggle room to prevent fraying and seams coming loose, shall we?  Press all the seams open.  

Keep going until you have three long strips (for each towel) of scraps sewn together that are at least the length of the measurement you calculated in step 1.

**Color placement note:  Though we're trying to be random here, keep in mind that you want a variety of colors in the center third of each strip to get the biggest scrappy impact when the towel is folded.  I learned that the hard way on my first towel.  Learn from my mistakes!

Step 4:

Join the three long strips together, again using a half inch seam.  Press seams to one side.

Step 5:

Trim your new patchwork panel to the measurement you calculated in step 1.

Step 6:

Turn down each long side a quarter inch.  Press.

Step 7:

Sew close to the edge to secure this seam.  It won't be visible in the end so feel free to use a zig-zag stitch here for more fray-protection.

Step 8:

Fold each long edge down a quarter inch again.  Press.  (Don't stitch to secure this time.)

Step 9:

Fold each short edge in by half an inch.  Press.  Stitch to secure with a straight stitch a quarter of an inch from the folded edge (This stitch line will be visible on the back of the finished towel).

Step 10:

Position your patchwork panel toward the bottom edge of your dishtowel, about 2" from the bottom, depending on the finish of your particular towel.  Also note whether your towel is directional.  For example, my towels have this twill tape finish at the bottom edge but not the top.  Important if you're making more than one!  Make sure the panel hangs over each side of the towel by half an inch.

Step 11:

Fold the half inch of the panel that hangs over the side of the towel to the back.  Press, pin, or clip in place and stitch on top of the stitches you created in step 9 to secure the panel to the towel.  You will be going through multiple layers of fabric/seams as well as the thick edge of the towel, so use your judgement for speed and or possible need of walking foot based on your skills and machine.

Step 12:

Secure the center of the panel to the towel by topstitching close to each long edge as well as through each seam line running the length of the panel.  You may want to increase your stitch length a little.

And that's it!  Now repeat for the rest of your towels.  I find that chain piecing the long strips from step 3 makes for a quicker project, plus you can mix and match the strips better when joining them in threes when you have a lot more to choose from.  

If you make some of these towels, I'd love to see them!  Please email me photos or put a link in the comments.  And please don't hesitate to ask questions if I wasn't clear about something!

Linking up to Fabric Tuesday on Quilt Story